June 7th Folegandros and Milos

We’ve just had lunch. This is no mean feat as we are doing over 7 knots and heeled well over. I’m used to it now. In the Saloon, everything is practically nailed down! A few things slide off the table, but we’re now wise to the things that fly about- trial and error!! The cooker is on a gimble, if you remember to release it! We boil up water in a whistly kettle on the gas for coffee. The work surface, which has a 2” wooden rim ( handily!!), is also the fridge and freezer with pull up doors. So you move backwards and forwards depending which fridge you need to go in. It all happens at 45 deg of heel plus the bow goes up and down. Interesting!! This is why I shall be well toned when we get home. You use a lot of muscles! Then the captain decides to tack…

He’s lucky if he gets his sandwiches intact!!

We had a good visit to Folegandros. It’s unfortunate that it came after Sikinos. Nothing’s going to match up! We anchored in the bay- eventually.  As we arrived there was a big ferry in the port. To its left was the town quay with what looked like the perfect spot for us on the end. We aimed for it. I’m heading  for the anchor when I hear Simon yell ‘ what are you doing??!’  Another boat, that we thought was anchored, barred our way. They hailed us and explained that we had to wait for the ferry to leave in 15 mins and then we were 3rd in line for the quay. Looking around we saw that we were. I prefer anchoring anyway, so we anchored and let them get on with it. 

We had fun on a quad bike here. We visited the usual Chora, climbed up to the usual monastery – this one was shut but as usual had great views, it was so high. The town had a great cliff edge, impressive, where you could look down to the sea and spot pirates. That’s the thinking behind these clifftop villages and elevated monasteries- spotting and repulsing pirates, centuries ago. 

In the past the people of Folegandros (F from now on) backed the wrong side in a war Spartan v Athens. Athens won , F surrendered. Their ‘reward’ was that every man was slaughtered and all the woman and children were taken as slaves. 

Our reward was a few hours on a beach. It was next to another bigger beach and to reach it you had to wade out and work your way round some cliffs. Most people didn’t bother, but we like the quiet ones. 

Next stop Milos. Our pattern is to sail one day and look around the next day. 2 days in a place. We both need a day off!! Simon would like to start learning his guitar and I’d like to get my paints out.

Milos is a geological Tour de Force. It’s another volcano and again we sailed over a Caldera. The rock formations are a complete mix of everything from igneous lava plugs and chimneys , to chalk. Tortured shapes, many colours 

We explored Milos by car. €20 as it wasn’t a new car!! Milos is very interesting. The Venus de Milo was found there (see pic, it was discovered in a field, by a farmer, between the broken down Gymnasium and the broken down amphitheater, both in use for about 7 centuries before and after BC. )

We saw the Christian catacombs and the impressive amphitheater. The Chora and the high up monastery!! Lots of colour and white and alleyways and glimpses of sea. 

Now we needed that beach. 

We went to Sarankinko, a large white pumice stone area that looked like a moonscape. All folds and erosion. Caves and an archway/ blowhole. Hard to describe. I’ll put in a pic. You could swim in an inlet and sit on the rocks. It’s one of Milos’s highlights. 

Talking of highlights- I cut my hair yesterday! I’ve never done that before. I never see a hair salon so I had to. Simon helped with the back and I even trimmed the layers. I’ve given up with the blow drying and just let it go curlyish. I think it looks ok. It certainly dries quickly in the sun! 

Just had about quick look ahead. We’re motoring as that capricious wind has failed us again. I’m busy doing this and I just noticed that I’m alone on deck! Captain ‘s gone to the loo!! So I’d better look out, but there’s nothing within half an hour of us. 


We’ve anchored in Vathi Bay, Sifnos. We went ashore in the dinghy and bumped ( not literally!) into 2 British  couples. They tell us high winds are expected Fri Sat, so we need to discuss our plans. Xx

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